In this expert Q&A with Dame Magazine, Dr. Garth Fisher offers no-nonsense advice on SPF, antioxidants, and why smart prevention—not trendy products—is the key to lasting skin health.
2008 Interview Dame Magazine
Cutting Through the Myths of Sun Protection
The story is about easy ways to boost your sun protection.
Can you recommend a good antioxidant serum for someone with sensitive skin? What about oily skin?
It is the vehicle of a product that makes a product acceptable for specific skin types. i.e., a product intended for oily skin will be formulated without oils or waxes that may make an oily skin type feel more oily. Sensitive skin products will usually be formulated without ingredients known to provoke skin irritation and sensitivity i.e. acids, sulphates, fragrances (synthetic or natural i.e. essential oils), or colorants. I recommend a cocktail of antioxidants as they all are functional and there is no one magic bullet. Sensitive skin types should avoid high concentrations (10% +) of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) due to the low pH required to support the vitamin activity in the formula, which can be irritating.
What’s your opinion on cleansers that leave SPF behind on the skin?
Sunscreen type, activity (UVA & UVB absorption), and frequent application are just a few of the important considerations for adequate UV protection. I’m unaware of any peer-reviewed research that demonstrates the efficacy of SPF sunscreens in products intended to be rinsed off such as cleansers.
Is makeup with SPF helpful or just a gimmick?
UV protection is dependent on the type of sunscreens, vehicle, concentration of sunscreens, combination of permitted sunscreens, amount of application, and frequent application, to name a few. Any sunscreen use is better than none, however one application of makeup with sunscreen is not sufficient for long-term UV exposure. One should be using a high SPF UVA & UVB sunscreen under their makeup, as well.
Do you think an antioxidant supplement (like Heliocare, for example) is worth the trouble?
There’s no peer-reviewed, independent science to support the use of oral antioxidants against UV-induced free radicals or to “boost” UV protection equally to or better than daily use of a well-formulated sunscreen. Moreover, the skin is one of the last organs to benefit from oral supplementation. I’m unaware of any controlled studies to support oral antioxidant supplements and UV protection.
Any other tips for boosting sun protection?
The best advice I tell my patients is to “live a shady life.” If you avoid direct, long-term exposure and use a high SPF UVA & UVB sunscreen daily and protective clothing you’ll maintain healthier and younger-looking skin for years.
